NYC — Spring 2013: Craftbar

So, I'm back from New York! I honestly can't believe I've been gone for five days. It seriously felt like two. Much food was eaten, much money was spent, and much walking was executed (seriously, we walked at least 40 blocks everyday). If you don't know me personally, I go to New York for a family trip every year in the Spring (my brother lives in New York, so it's when we all get together to have some family time). If you've ever been to New York, you'll know that eating is one of the biggest reasons why people even go there. It's foodie culture central. In fact, it seemed like our entire trip was based on our meals. When we woke up, it's like, "Where should we go for lunch?" After that, we'd be all, "Okay, so what do you want to do until dinner?" This time around, we stayed at a hotel in the Fashion District, so my brother made sure to pick out restaurants that were relatively nearby, give or take ten blocks, so it'd be a walkable distance. The first meal of the trip was dinner at Tom Colicchio's Craftbar.
Charcuterie assortment
To start, the charcuterie. Presented on a plank: smoked pig's head terrine with shiitake mushrooms and pickled mustard seed, chicken liver pâté with apple butter, pastrami wagyū beef tongue with spicy beer mustard, speck biellese with black pepper, and country-style duck pâté with cherry mostarda. I'm a huge fan of charcuterie plates because it allows me to try the restaurant's preparations of various meats that I wouldn't ordinarily have. Everything on a charcuterie plate is also made fresh, and painstakingly so because they have to extract the meat in a way that gives it the optimal flavour and texture and prepare it so that the integrity of the meat stays fresh and intact. The selection at Craftbar is really good, too — not the most adventurous (like, say, the horse salami at The Black Hoof), but well-rounded in variety, textures, and flavours without being too salty, smoky, or gamey. The pickles and radishes are a nice touch, too, to help cleanse the palate between trying the different offerings. My personal favourites were the smoked pig's head terrine and the duck pâté. Served with crusty bread — a meat-loving foodie's dream!
Market asparagus with whole grain mustard sabayon and warm pancetta vinaigrette
Shishito peppers with sumac, lemon, and sea salt
West Virginia ramps with orange oil and pepperoncini
Of course, with all that meat, we needed some vegetables to round out our meal, so we ordered three small plates to share. The asparagus, perfectly cooked with a nice crunch, is nicely contrasted with the nasal-clearing sharpness of the mustard and the salty-sweetness of the pancetta. My favourite side of the night, the Shishito peppers, are deep-fried and crispy, then tossed with a squeeze of lemon and a flurry of salt that would actually be perfect as a bar snack. Finally, the ramps. I had no idea what ramps were. To me, they were something you drive on to get on and off the highway. But they are indeed a vegetable. Similar to pea shoots with a leaf more akin to spinach and an onion-like bulb. They're supposed to taste like green onions and garlic, but at Craftbar, they're cooked in a way that actually gives them quite a mild taste, almost like Chinese choy sum, and then they're tossed with orange oil and pepperoncini to provide a nice crisp flavour and a kick of heat. Apparently, in the Spring, ramps are "all the rage" in New York City, with every single restaurant serving up ramps in every style imaginable. The ramps we had were tasty, but nothing special. It was almost like a hipster farmer said, "Guys, ramps. This is gonna be the new 'it' vegetable, trust me." Yes, in my world, there are hipster farmers.
Spaghetti and veal ricotta meatballs with basil and San Marzano tomato sauce
Braised veal breast with potato purée, sweetbreads, West Virginia ramps, and shiitake mushrooms
Then, the main courses. My mom and I decided to share two so we could have more variety. After reading some of the reviews and tips on Craftbar, the unanimous favourite here is the veal meatballs. Honestly, I never thought much of meatballs; I mean, they're good and satisfying, but nothing phenomenal or unique. When spaghetti and meatballs are on the menu, I rarely order it because it's something even I could make at home. But Craftbar has changed my view on meatballs. These ones, made of veal and ricotta, are the most plush, tender, gloriously divine meatballs, ever. Like, these are game-changers. Yes, game-changing meatballs. I like that they pair them simply, with just spaghetti, fresh tomato sauce, and a bit of parmesan cheese, to really let the meatballs take the spotlight. A must-order here. The second dish we shared was also veal-based. Veal breast, braised until melt-in-your-mouth tender, is coated with a lightly sweet and slightly tangy hoisin-like sauce that goes well with the richer flavour of the sweetbreads. The silky potato purée and soft chew of the earthy mushrooms offer a lovely textural contrast to the meats. Between the two, the meatballs are more simple, both texturally and in terms of flavour, but is the dish I would deem a must-have.
The restaurant itself is fairly large (by New York standards) and casual with a modern, loft-like, almost industral feel, but is a place that will appeal to both the city slicker and the out-of-town tourist. No dress code here, either; you could come here just as easily in black-tie attire or in jeans and sneakers. The menu is relatively small but well-edited, and is "upscale" without trying too hard or veering into fine dining territory; there is something for everyone here (except perhaps vegans) and the food combinations are interesting and well-executed. The service is polite, informative, attentive, and efficient (I have found that efficiency is key in New York — New Yorkers are not known for their patience), and the food arrives at a good pace. Craftbar is a great option if you're looking for American cuisine with a twist in a casual, non-pretentious environment. 

Craftbar 900 Broadway New York, NY 10003 (212) 461-4300